Lake Magadi: The Drive To

We left on Saturday morning early. Loaded up the 1970s Toyota Landcruiser of Nikolai’s and headed out of Nairobi.

We got a full mile down the road and the engine died. We all go out and started pushing. About 10 people joined in to help push the white guys car. One guy down the road came to have a quick fix.

We were able to get the car started, got another 100 yards down the road and it died. He follow us and put some tape on the fuel line, started again. We all piled in, drove 1000 yards and died. By now we’re calling Nikolai’s mechanic to come take a look and talking about postponing the weekend. A couple guys walked up and said they were mechanics. These guys seemed legit as they were sucking on the fuel line to see if any fuel would come from the tank to the engine. No fuel = blocked fuel line. 20 min later we’re on our way. It was pretty crazy how many people were willing to help, but definitely always looking for money. UPDATE: Dean makes a good point in his comment.  People do help here more than you’d find the U.S.  It’s unfortunate that we’ve lost that sense of community as we ‘progress’.

From there, things went pretty well with the drive. Standard huge pot holes everywhere. We stopped to let the car rest, have some lunch, see some of the surrounding sites.

It was actually very similar to the Namibian landscape near Opuwo.  We pulled into Magadi about mid-day and were ready for the rest of our adventure.

Not to spoil it too much, but the images you saw in the post are very similar to others that come later.

Our Adventure to Lake Magadi

I hope to share some more information soon, but we had a great trip to Lake Magadi this past weekend.  I’m exhausted, but wanted to leave you with a little teaser.

The weekend was full of:

  • Waterfalls
  • Baboons
  • Hiking
  • Hot Springs
  • Broken Down Cars

I look forward to sharing this all with you hopefully by tomorrow.

Traveling to Chobe/Muchenge

Following our stay at Xakanaxa we were again to hop onto the Cessna and make our way to the Chobe national park. We quickly learned that it was 3 flights this time to our final destination. 15, 20 and 40 minutes. Fun fun. Things started great and I was enjoying the elephant viewing from above. Take off, landing, take off, landing, take off…ok…can we get there already? In my infinite wisdom I started watching some ‘Scrubs’ on my ipod on the last flight…I get deathly sick. You see…I get really bad motion sickness and these Cessnas, well, they move a lot in the air. I spend the next 30 minutes trying not to throw up on the people in front of me. Focus on the horizon…that was a big bump…i wonder if anyone else is sick…I’m not moving to find out…stay still and it will be over soon. I made it without seeing breakfast, but this was not fun.

Xakanaxa

Our arrival at Xakanaxa presented us with a nice reception from Flo, the usual arrival drink, apple juice this time, and the awareness that at night we are not to go walking around alone due to hippo danger…sweet. A lunch of meat loaf was delicious and my upset belly was not enough to keep me from housing this plate of food. We were showed the fully stocked bar and coolers that are self-service and all we could drink…could you repeat that?…all we can drink. Deal.

We are taken to our tents which are basically awesome big tents with hardwood flooring and king size beds. The picture gives you a better idea than I could ever paint for you. I’m very happy.

Our stay at Xakanaxa would be filled with morning and evening game drives, about 4 hours each and midday break to have some food and relax by the pool. I believe I was one of the few to enjoy the pool time. The drink coolers were great. The food was always amazing. The other guests and staff turned out to be always friendly and full of great stories. This is the place to go if you want to interact with people who have great stories and are from all around the world. The animals we saw were what you’d expect and was more natural than say Etosha. We had nightly visits from hippos around our tents. Elephants would invade the campsite despite the electric fences. It’s a wild place and you are reminded all the time…it’s great. Go here if you can.

Next stop was Chobe national park.

Traveling to Botswana to Begin Part 2

Ok…Botswana. After spending a long week of driving in Namibia we made our way back to Windhoek for a flight out to Botswana. Our destination…Johannesburg. No, Johannesburg is not in Botswana, but we had to make a pit stop there in order to fly to Maun, Botswana. Our plane was a wonderfully old MD-90 with no discernible markings to indicate that this was an accredited airline. Air Botswana…mkay. I had to keep telling myself that flying is safer than driving and no place is more dangerous to drive than in Africa. I am not aware of numbers on flight safety in Africa and would rather not know. We make it to Maun without incident and as luck would have it, another flight. 🙂 This time we’re in a single-engine, eight-seater Cessna. A 15 minute flight to get us to Xakanaxa. This was also quick and painless and was actually pretty cool flying so low above the Okavanga Delta. The landing was thrilling and we arrived to a group of people waiting with safari vehicles to take all passengers to their respective lodges…can we get some lunch?

Travels Continue

Currently at the Garden Route Game Lodge after leaving Franschoek this morning. The wine country was amazing and definitely worth a visit when, not if, you make the trek to Cape Town. Things are going well and definitely not getting enough rest, but figure I’ll live. Not many details right now, but I’ll see what I can do once it’s all said and done….have to leave some writing for while I’m on the airplane.

I did have my first rain fall in 6 months today so that was interesting to experience again. It’s also really cold here so I guess it’s a good warm up for heading back to a Cincinnati Fall.

You Know You’re a Tourist When…Part 5: Souvenirs

So you go on vacation and really like that tshirt, hat, whatever with the name of the place you’re visiting on it. You want to show everyone where you’ve been and what you’ve seen. It can also be a good conversation starter. What really kills me though is when the person doesn’t wait to get home to wear it. You love N.Y. so you show it by immediately donning the shirt and wearing it as you tour the city. Cracks me up.

Cape Town – It Begins

I arrived safely in Cape Town yesterday after leaving my parents in Zambia for their own travels back to the U.S. I’m now on my last adventure in Africa and will be heading home after 10 days of fun with my friends Todd and Andy. Honestly I kind of feel like I need a break, but I can always rest when I get back home on the 21st. More details to come.

Rafting

Dad and I went for a great rafting trip down the Zambezi river the other day. This is a must for any adventure seeking person who happens to make the trip to Victoria Falls. Plenty of class five rapids to be enjoyed. Names like Stairway to Heaven, The Temple of Doom and Commercial Suicide have been given to the rapids clearly to make those who face them feel at ease about what they are about go through. We were successful on the day with no falling out of the boat and no flipping over. We swam in crocodile infested waters…not joking. All in all this was a great day. Only sorry that mom couldn’t go, but with the hike in an out of the canyon it is best that she didn’t. Our half day trip ended with a hike out of the canyon, but in reality it was more of a climb. I had to frequently look back to check on dad who I thought was having a heart attack at one point. The guide warned us and said that the record time to the top was 6 minutes and the other was an hour and half…took us about 10 minutes. The top we were greeted by cool drinks and a short bus ride back to the hotel. Good times.

Zimbabwean Billionaires

I’m now a billionaire…so that’s cool. Part of our trip we decided to walk into Zimbabwe to check out Victoria Falls and also to see the Victoria Falls Hotel. This decision was an excellent one.

It all started with us walking out of Zambia, crossing the bridge and entering Zimbabwe. We were bombarded by people trying to sell us things. One of the main things they were selling was the now defunct Zimbabwean currency. I can now say that I’m a Zimbabwean billionaire as I have in my possession a few 100 Billion Dollar notes.

Immigration was fun. We got stuck behind a Japanese tour group of about 50 when normally there is no line at all. Hot is an understatement of how it was in the office. We finally got through though with the help of a nice agent and paying our $30 visa charges.

Next stop was Victoria Falls park. $20 dollars per person later we were seeing some awesome sights of the falls. Since we couldn’t see anything from the Zambian side this time of year this was necessary to see the falls and who would go to Victoria Falls and not see the falls? Pictures and videos to be shared soon.

What else…we then went to the Victoria Falls Hotel. It’s from the early 1900s and is an amazing place to see. I recommend this. Mom and I were attacked by some vervet monkeys that thought my sun glasses were food and when they realized they were they got pissed. I did my best monkey intimidation grunt and readied by water bottle for maximum dousing. Danger was averted.

We made our way back into Zambia as the sun fell. Mom and Dad did their best power walking impression as they were a bit nervous of some of the locals. I laughed a bit, but it’s understandable as it takes a bit of getting used to here. Dad also had a dual holster of camera equipment going on so he looked like a pretty good target.

Good day trip.

Passports

A couple of mishaps on the trip so far.

I left my passport in the safe in the hotel in Joburg. We were almost at the airport when I remembered…I’m smart. Fortunately a few things were on my side. I remembered the combination I used to the safe. I remembered my room number. The tour operator had a driver they could send to pick it up. Lastly, the flight was much later than we thought. I now have my passport and will not be losing it again.

A couple days later we’re staying at the Xakanaxa camp in Botswana. This is in the middle of the Okavenga delta so it requires flights on small planes. We’re already half way through our 3 flight trip to get to the Chobe National park when Dad realizes his own misstep. Passport holder and cash are on the night stand in their tent. Oops. We again have dodged a bullet and the passport was able to be delivered a day later.

Sometimes the tree inherits aspects of the fallen acorn.

Part One of Three Complete


Time has been limited and so has my Internet connectivity. I promise I’ll write at length when all is said and done, but the Namibian adventure has come to an end. I’m currently sitting in Johannesburg in the Michelangelo. I decided to pass on the tour today as I’ve not been feeling the best and considering I’ve driven over 1500km within the past week I think I need a rest. I’d like to point out some highlights from our trip so far with, again, more details to come later.

– Mom and Dad arrive, but without their luggage
– Dad shocks himself on the electric fence at Olive Grove B&B…mom and I laugh
– Saw a herd of 35 elephants in Etosha…saw a lion, some hyenas as well as new comers to animals I’ve seen.
– Luggage arrives while we are in Etosha…I get a great gift from Shannon
– Dad takes roughly 5 billion pictures
– Grootberg lodge is amazing…enough said
– Dinner in Opuwo with fellow volunteers for the last time
– Last night in Opuwo seems strange
– Take parents on a tour of where I worked and they met my colleagues
– Epupa Falls is not so fally when the water is low…still cool
– Long, crazy drive to Ondangwa from Epupa
– Get to see us land through the cockpit window when flying back to Windhoek
– Arrive in Johannesburg for one night and then off to Maun, Botswana for Part Two

Not a very detailed list, but some highlights that I will elaborate on later.

Windhoek Again

So that was kind of an abrupt and low climax to the end of my time in Opuwo. Sorry folks, but I will make it up to you. Tonight the parents arrive and we start our 16 day Safari through Namibia and Botswana…I then head for a 10 day trip in Cape Town with my friends Andy and Todd. I’m sure I’ll have plenty to report and I’ll do some reporting when I can. I was able to get a right down with the Ministry yesterday in an empty car…that was a nice change from my first trip to Windhoek with me sharing the front seat with another guy.

Today I went and bought some gifts for people and had a lot I wanted to get. I bought everything and the people were even nice enough to drive me to places that told me a small box weighing 7kg. would cost me roughly 500 USD to send to the U.S…..WHAT!?!?!? Um…no. I went to three places and all their prices were the same. Crazy expensive. I decided I’d see what I could do about stuffing some items in my bags..which I also thought about shipping, but now just going to sweet talk British Airlines. I hope my parents packed light.

I had a run in with Telecom today and they were not happy. I apparently never paid for one of my months of service…oops. It worked out in the end.

Good lunch at Paul’s coffee shop. I suggest anyone who goes to Windhoek check this place out as it has great food and is for a great cause.

We’re staying in the Olive Grove tonight…this place is really nice. www.OliveGrove-Namibia.com. I think the parents will be pleasantly surprised.

Now I must go find out what flight they are on and when it comes in. Wish me luck.

You Know You’re A Tourist When…Part 4: Secret Money Pack

Buy a distinct khaki purse to put your money in. They are to be used only when on vacation in strange and exotic, though potentially dangerous, locales around the globe. Instructions: Put all of your most valuable possessions in this magic bag and your worries will disappear. Features: the bag makes you and your giant camera, fanny pack, international mobile phone, mp3 player and clean sneakers blend into the local surroundings…you’re practically invisible. But wait there’s more, it tricks thieves through the art of reverse psychology because who could be stupid enough to put all of their money in one, clearly identifiable bag?

I believe these bags were actually designed and created by thieves. It’s genius. It’s always around your target’s neck. It’s a prominent color, khaki. It’s big enough that everyone puts their passport, credit cards and cash in it. It’s a perfect Win, Lose.

Seriously though, if you’re robbed it’s almost always because you were being careless…sometimes just bad luck. You went down the dark alley at night. You flashed your cash and someone saw. You were wearing really nice things and someone wanted them. You left your valuables sitting out in the open in your rental car. My advice is really just to think when you’re traveling. Be aware of common scams, know the bad areas of town, don’t take out more cash than you need that night, don’t be flashy. If you’re white in Africa you’re a likely target, it’s just the reality where I’ve been. Crooks are opportunists so don’t give them the opportunity. And please, don’t buy a special bag to hold your money. Put your money and cards in your front pocket and don’t have too much on you. The companies that make those bags are opportunists…think about it.

You Know You’re a Tourist When…Part 2: Language

You get off the plane. You’re pumped. It’s vacation time. You’re taking in the sights. Then it hits you. You’re hungry. Um…do you have a menu in english? You don’t understand me? Can I just have a hamburger? No…a hamburger. No…A HAM-BUR-GER!

This does happen. You have this romantic view of traveling and how perfect things are going to be and then you realize that no one understands a word that is coming out of your mouth. The simple becomes arduous. Some of us go into hermit mode, cower in the corner and say nothing. Others try shouting. I’M FROM AMERICA…A-MER-I-CA…YOU KNOW, THE UNITED STATES OF… No matter who you are, first piece of advice, see if they understand your language. If they do, cool. If they don’t, good luck. Your best bet, speak clearly and slowly…not loudly. Spinal Tap’s 11 is just too high. The person is most likely not hard of hearing…they just don’t understand. This is when drawing pictures, pointing to maps and smiles are always good. No, they shouldn’t know how to speak English, it’s their country. Preach all you want about how ‘Americans should speak American,’ but only while in the U.S.. Outside those borders you’re the guest…act like it. Try to learn some of their language. If you love hamburgers find out how to say it. You’d be surprised how far a simple ‘hello’ in a native tongue will get you. Sure, they’ll probably respond with something you don’t understand, but that’s where the smile kicks in.

I deal with this problem every day and it can get to you sometimes, but that’s the nature of the traveling business. I figure it’s best to make the best of it and don’t worry too much, you’re bound to run into someone that understands you eventually.

What’s the biggest misunderstanding you have ever encountered while traveling because of a language difference?

Kunene Camping Trip – Day Four

It’s been so long not sure what happened on day 4.

Day Four

I believe this was the day we woke up in Palmwag and drove back to Opuwo. We headed north on a rough road and made our way through Sesfontein. I listened to a lot of music, we took a lot of detours and we saw a lot of nice landscape.

Lunch was at Fort Sesfontein where they stain their chairs red so when you sit down you get red on you. Really though we had no idea why the chairs appeared to be bleeding. I’m no chair doctor, but this can’t be good. One expensive and no so great lunch later we were back on our way.

Lots of Baobob trees can be seen on this route and is a great place to go looking for them. I personally prefer heading up to Epupa for this, but this is a close second for large and old tree viewing. Anyone know how old these trees can be? I don’t know, but would like to know.

Arrived in Opuwo later that evening and I have to say I was happy to be home after so much traveling. Too many restless nights in a tent can really wear on you.

See…not that exciting of a day, but it’s about time I closed that chapter.

Kunene Camping Trip – Day 3

It’s been about two weeks since this day so could be a little hazy.

Day Three

Woke up that night to windy wind. Sounded like the trees above my tent were going to blow over. As a result, my night of sleep was not as sound as I had hoped for as I slept in constant fear of large limbs falling on my head. There was a great sunrise that morning and felt pretty good about how nice it was out. I cooked up some eggs for everyone which took a while because it was so windy that the heat wasn’t reaching the pot…plopped it right on the coals. Penny was not enjoying the wind.

Next stop was the Skeleton Coast. We paid our N$30 and went through the gate. There’s nothing there, which really is the appeal of it all. We were close to the coast and pop fizzle whiz bang…we got a flat tire. This time there were no helpful Namibians around so this one was on me. Now I understood why I was invited on the trip. New tire on and we were forced to turn back as now we were all out of spares.

We made a quick stop by Wereldsend and picked up a guy to take him to the town we had been in the previous day. We got there and needed to get our tires fixed and found some more reasonably priced repairs. During our repairs our friend, let’s call him Oscar again, showed up. This time extremely intoxicated. Lucky me, he picked me to talk to…or at least have a one way conversation with. He asked me a question about what party do I vote for in the U.S. Here’s another fact for you…most people outside of the U.S. ‘know everything’ about our politics. So my response was simple, ‘I don’t vote for a party, I vote for the person.’ This was apparently not the answer he was looking for and had no idea what it meant. I repeated, but no understanding. He then proceeded to get a bit angry and I ignored him as we were working with the car. It escalated to my being a racist by the end of it all (his feelings) as he yelled this as loud as he could to pretty much no one. Good times.

Next stop was Palmwag. This is where we were going to camp for the night. Nicest campsite by far. Immediately grabbed lunch and a drink at the bar. Jumped in the icy pool and jumped right out. Set up camp. Had drinks as the sunset and sat down for a nice dinner with us 3 and a friend of Penny’s who worked there. Food was excellent and off to bed. Yep, I just rushed through the details there, but not very exciting stories in this one.

Day four soon to come.

Kuene Camping Trip – Day 2

Let’s see here…it’s going to be a bit hard for me to remember the days here so I’ll do my best to quickly rely some of the happens.

Day Two

This morning was some of the best weather I’ve had here so far. Brisk and breezy…very nice. We packed up early and were off for another day in the car. Again, I had no idea where we were going other than west of Kamanjab.

Our day started with a stop by one of Penny’s prospective campsites. I was a bit underwhelmed due to the openness of it all, but with a little work it could probably be just as nice as all the rest. We picked up a man whom I’m going to call Oscar as that may have been his name, but I really don’t remember…it’s my best guess. He will play into Day 3. I promptly fell asleep and awoke in a small village where we were to drop this guy off. As luck would have it, a flat tire. The locals were quick to jump at the opportunity to fix the tire…fine by me. We were there for about 45 minutes while Penny met with a local to discuss the campsite and the tire was changed. We paid the man N$20 for the tire change and he protested that it should be N$50. I told the man to say thank you just as I said thank you for him helping and we were off.

Next stop was a place called the Grootberg Lodge…why not? The road up to this lodge is not awesome. Scary is how I would put it and I kind of wanted to walk. The video clarifies the drive a little. This lodge is something else though. It’s situated on a cliff at the end of a huge canyon…it’s as cool as it sounds. This is a 100% conservancy owned lodge so all profits go to the local people. We were offered some free drinks and we enjoyed some time there. My parents and I will be staying at this lodge in their upcoming visit so more on it later.

The rest of the day was spent driving to Wereldsend where we would be spending the night. Nothing too eventful here except for more napping, the occasional sighting of an oryx and some delicious dried pears.

Wereldsend is the HQ of IRDNC, the organization Penny works with. It’s pretty much in the best middle of nowhere you could imagine. Quiet is an understatement. No shabeens for miles around…this makes me happy. Lions and leopards are in an assumed abundance; however, we would not see any this trip. Only prints on the ground…some pretty big ones at that.

The evening was spent by the fire with Penny scaring Jesse with stories of lions and such. Always nice to sit by a fire…especially with your back to a very large open grassy plain area.

Hyenas could be heard close by as I went to sleep. The night would prove interesting…

Kunene Camping Trip – Day 1

I’m a little late on getting to this but thought I’d tell you a little to go along with the videos.

Day One

It’s Friday and we head off around noon to go have a weekend of camping. I’m joined with Penny and Jesse, two other vols, and we’re going south. I really actually have no idea where we’re going, but it’s always great to get out and see more of Namibia. I also quickly find out that we aren’t coming back to Opuwo until Monday and here I haven’t told my boss…I hope he forgives my afterthought.

I hop myself in the backseat and prepare for the open expanses of road that Namibia is so fond of. I play some music for the women and they quickly find my music to be too awesome so I put my headphones in and spend the rest of the trip with my music and thoughts. I catch numerous naps in there as well.

I wake up and we’re at the campsite. I know that we’re by the west gate of Etosha, but other than that I have put myself at the mercy of others. Looks like a cool place, lots of big rocks, hills and nice white trees. We plop ourselves down at designated campsite 4errrr…that one is taken….campsite 5, set up camp and are quickly overtaken by the mini-special forces-flies. I have not been attacked like this in a while. The women retreat to the tent while I start on the wine and try not to think about the bugs. I am not very good at detaching mind from body so my next course of action is to shower and get rid of all unnatural smells…this kind of helps. My next plan is to hike and keep moving as a moving target is much harder to hit. Even better, but now I’m sweating and the bugs love any liquid. Once realizing that there is no way to win the sun starts to set and the bugs retreat.

I have a few questions. We’re in the middle of presumably nowhere and within 5 seconds we are attacked by flies. How does this happen? What/who do these flies annoy when no one is around?

Next I start making dinner, we’re doing a chicken braii with some sweet potatoes, onions and cherry tomatoes. This is about 6pm. Fire is good to go, sun sets, food is placed on the fire. 6:30pm it’s dark. Our camping neighbors, family of 5, are already in bed…What? I keep running this through my head over and over but can’t seem to make sense of it. You come all the way to Namibia for car top camping and you go to bed at 6:30pm? We think maybe they’re getting up early…nope. Maybe they are jetlagged…nope…from Europe so it’s the same time zone. Anyone have any ideas out there?

Dinner was good, wine was good, no bugs was good, marshmallows were good…nap time. Day 2 coming up and again, I really had no idea where we were going.

Return to Opuwo

I’ve officially decided that driving from Windhoek to Opuwo does not equal fun. It takes at least 7 hours…I think that’s about the best and only reason I can give for my views. Today’s trip involved the abrupt end of a small bird’s life, the near death of a long-tailed sheep, questions regarding my political views, extreme head nodding with no meaningful rest, hot hot sun on my belly with no long term solution and a Wimpy burger. I know, I know, I swore off Wimpy after my experience in Kenya; however, the only thing the two establishments have in common is their namesake. Good to be back, minus the lack of running water.